Triple Decker Falls
We heard it before we could see it
The silence of the massive forest gave way to the roaring thunder of water. And then it was in front of us: a cascade plummeting into an 80-metre canyon. This, however, was no ordinary waterfall. Halfway down, Spahats Creek Falls had frosted over, forming gravity-defying tiers of ice. It was a scene straight out of Frozen.
The semi-frozen falls is one of more than 40 within B.C.’s Wells Gray Provincial Park. The pristine Murtle River, a runoff from a Cariboo Mountains glacier, meanders for 18 kilometres through the park, spawning these thrilling waterfalls.
About 125 km north of Kamloops, Wells Gray is British Columbia’s fourth-largest provincial park. In addition to waterfalls, the 541,500-hectare park also boasts spectacular lakes and an inland temperate rainforest. In such vast surroundings, our party of six felt like we were the only people on earth.
“That’s one of the special things about this place in winter,” says Stephanie Molina, a spokesperson for Wells Gray. “You really feel like you have it to yourself.” It’s also when the waterfalls are at their most magnificent, showing off their distinct and dramatic personalities. Summer access roads are increasingly being groomed and tracked in winter, making the destination both thrilling and accessible.